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The    WEB WORLD CURLING CLUB   Presents

    Basic  STRATEGY
Technique and physics discussed
The World Curling Alliance
  To Perfect and Promote

classic.JPG (11891 bytes)
MEMORIZE
Always remember, "Risk vs. Reward." AND are we on offense or defense?
    CLASSIC strategy layout for FINESSE GAME.
Potential multiple scoring strategy for RED, 2 or more points with "corner guards" set in place at a cost -- Blue has taken over the control zone. Risk vs. Reward.
Also called, erroneously, "junk it up" game.
    In contrast, an OPEN game is initiated when the first rock is thrown into the house (above t-line) to start a "HIT" or "open"   low scoring style of play.
    Before any rocks are thrown, each team should decide: Are we playing aggressive/offense or defensive/conservative. A team may switch back and forth in one end at any time as circumstances develop.
Scenario 1. Start of game. End 1. Score 0-0.
    Red team is playing offense.
    Blue team chooses "moderate" defense (a rock in the house is pure defense) and puts up short guards but can switch to offense or pure defense with the placement of these rocks. Again, throwing the first rock in the house is considered pure defense and initiates an "open" hitting end with the hope of holding Red, with hammer, to 1.
    Blue rocks throw first and place rocks in the "free guard" zone (not in house). Their job is to plug the control zone to keep Red (with hammer) out of the 4 foot and limit Red's ability to use the whole house (draw play to center).
    With rocks grouped inside the 8', Blue will have a chance (with double hits and/or rolls) to hold Red to a score of one or even steal one.
    Red is playing offense and puts up classic corner guards for later go-arounds for a potential score of 3. This very aggressive strategy (placing 2 corners) is normally reserved for a later end situation when Red is down 3 and must gamble on a big end to catch up to Blue. I say, "gamble," because many rocks in play offers further opportunity for Blue to steal.
    Red will now, no doubt, consider the defense set up by Blue and start hitting in a temporary defensive mode that may result in offense with a good hit and roll. 
Real "winning" strategy:
Never mind "classic" strategy, Red probably would not have waited this long. Blue would have also attempted a tap up/raise of one rock earlier knowing the three Blue rocks would be grouped too closely together offering an easy Red double/triple take out.
    When red starts hitting, Blue has accomplished its goal of drawing the play inboard AND "burning" Red rocks. Burning: Making opponents "use up" their rocks to your benefit
Scenario 2. Memorize
longguardsm.JPG (21720 bytes)
End 2. Score Red 2, Blue 0.
    Red is still in the offensive mode (maybe they figure they have better skills). Red is up 2 and decide to gamble (early ends) so they put up a centerline guard about 6' up from the top 12' ring (long guard). This rock is a clear indicator that Red plans to steal. A rock placed further out is referred to as a "burned/useless to Red team" rock as it may be of benefit for the team with last rock. IF the ice curls only 2', then a long guard may be placed up to 8' above the 12' circle, otherwise, stay in closer -- (6').     This 6' out rock can later be run back if the shot is needed.
Personally, under this score situation, I would not get "greedy," but start a hitting game by placing my lead rocks in the top house. Cont: (Move to right column)>>
   Note the curl is 4' so there is enough curl to bury above the t-line. A rock that stops "high/short" is still a good rock. DO NOT go deep, even into the 4' unless you can brush to bury.
    It's early, lead rocks, STAY HIGH!
    (Advanced strategy): Skips, placing the brush tight is OK. What can happen if you are the Blue team and you placed the brush target tight?
    You either sneak past the guard rock with a fully buried rock or you chip the Red off centerline and you end up with two corner guards for Blue -- one Red and one Blue AND Red no longer has control of the 4'.
   This long guard action clearly indicates to Blue that Red is on the offense and intends to try a steal OR the lead delivered his rock light. A guard 1' out would be a better call as a "defensive" shot with a chance for a tap-up offensive play later. With Red up two, a semi-conservative strategy should be initiated. This is the danger of memorizing strategy and not analyzing the "now" situation.
Blue now has a choice. Do we go-around now or throw up a classic corner guard. As mentioned above, place the brush "tight" with top 12' weight for a possible chip. If your brushers know "rock control brushing," you can "clear" the guard, brush Blue hard to bring into the TOP house for a bury or let it "chip" the Red to set up the double guard for Blue.
    If Blue goes around, Red has achieved a defensive goal of drawing Blue to the center of the house.
Blue decides to go-around. It is imperative to stop high in the house and hopefully buried. Sliding past the t-line will be a "rock for" the Red team as they will draw down to it and have "backing" with a Blue rock in the event of an attempted hit by Blue.
    The "draw" game is on. Rocks are centered in the middle 4' area and many are in play. Anytime a draw shot is slightly heavy and chips out to the side, the opposing team will start the "hit with roll" routine.


hilosm.jpg (17643 bytes)
MEMORIZE
Hi-Lo Hit and Roll.
There are two ways to play this hit situation.
Hit 1/2 rock to remove both rocks and maybe stick.
Hit 7/8th's to roll on top.
Or for another strategy reason (you are up 3+ in late ends) :Hit the outside1/2 Red rock to make the double and roll the Blue shooter rock out.
Carefully thought out strategy generates BEST options:
Whether Basic Strategy or Advanced Srategy,
Think first of Scenario:
1. End being played -- 1-10 or extra end?
2. Score, up/down and how much? -- Are you on offense or defense?
3. Do you have hammer?
4.Who is shooting (what rocks, #1-8? Leftee or Rightee).
5.Skills of your shooter vs. the opposition's next shooter.
6. Difficulty of requested shot?
7. Ice conditions?
8. Skill of opponents?
9. How much to lose vs. gain for one point or lose the end? Each end is a skirmish and not the end of battle!!
10. What am I leaving for the opposition?

Let's say, "Red has hammer."
Blue is throwing 3'rd rocks.
Blue will want to hit and stick on top of Red to make it difficult for Red to remove Blue. Blue may want to tap up later for the steal.  At least, for now, Blue will minimize Red's scoring opportunity.

shotrocksm.JPG (17917 bytes)
MEMORIZE:
You must, must, must get to shot rock for removal or to neutralize by third rocks.

Scenario:
Blue has hammer.
   The Blue third is shooting and Red is shot, fully buried.
Ice is straight (18" curl).
Two attempts at tapping Red out of buried position failed (Blue rocks where heavy but are in play for possible big score or jam of Red onto Blue).
    Blue must run back Blue, remove guard or place high (top 4') Blue for tap up guard to drive onto Red shot  rock by third rocks.
3 Rock Guard Zone (CAN./USA rules) 4 rock for World play.
MEMORIZE

Freetext.jpg (13212 bytes)
    A rock delivered into this protective zone can not be removed from play until the 4'th rock (Can. play) and 5'th rock (World) play. A guard may be moved by hitting but not removed from play. If such a rock was removed, it will be replaced to the original spot at the discretion of the non-offending team AND the offending rock may be removed.
     Should the non-offending team elect to the status quo, the offending rock will keep its status (in or out).
    You can not hit/remove your own rock either --CAN/USA play. The shooter is removed and the object rock replaced -- again, at the option of the non-offending team.
MEMORIZE
control.JPG (20883 bytes)
Which ever team can place and keep rocks in the CONTROL ZONE  throughout the end, will control
the button area for last rocks -- tap up or draw.
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